# lazy lazy boy! problem or personality?



## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

wylie coyote is a very lazy hedgehog... his wheel is clean every single morning and he will sleep 99% of the time if allowed. when i pull him out for playtime he will eat his dry catfood and drink water but completely ignores all insects, fruit, veg, baby food, treats etc. at playtime he is calm, friendly, playful, generally happy and sniffing around and snuggling.

but im worried that he wont eat bugs as i know that is a crucial part of his diet. he used to LOVE mealworms and i could use them as incentive etc, but recently since introducing dry catfood he no longer seems interested in mealworms.

the thing im most concerned about is his lack of exercise. he doesnt leave his sleeping area unless i take him out and force him to eat and play. i think he may just dislike the wheel i currently have and have sent out for a carolina storm bucket wheel as ive heard they are the best for lil hogs.

thought it may have been hibernation but i have a heat lamp, keep the cage temperature between 70-80 and have him on a light schedule. his belly was cold a couple of times before i had the heat lamp but hasnt happened since unless he falls asleep on the cage liner and not in his sleep hut.

he is a 5 month old male [salt and pepper]

is he going through puberty or are these signs of an underlying health problem?

peace & love,

sarah and wylie coyote


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## Artemis-Ichiro (Jan 22, 2016)

The temperature should not fluctuate more than a couple of degrees, 70-80 is too big. How do you know he sleeps the whole time?


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

i dont know for certain but the reason i suspect as much is because the cage and wheel are clean, unchanged from where i placed toys etc the night before, and his food/water has not gone down. im definitly having trouble keeping the heat steady. i have a flukers heat lamp which i cannot set the temp on amd i live in a very cold area! i was considering getting a second lamp for more reliability. is the light/heat what is keeping him in his sleep hut? it never dips below 70.


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## Artemis-Ichiro (Jan 22, 2016)

The ideal temperature is between 73 and 78, 70 is too cold. You need a thermostat to control the lamp (which shouldn't emit any light) and a thermometer in the cage. 

If he's not eating you need to syringe feed him ASAP before fatty leaver sets in.


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

he eats plenty of dry cat food & water. i got him a daytime lamp & a nighttime lamp and turned the temp to 80. will report back. also lowered his new carolina storm wheel and placed a strip of fleece on top to see if he uses it at all.


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## Artemis-Ichiro (Jan 22, 2016)

happytreecompany said:


> he eats plenty of dry cat food & water. i got him a daytime lamp & a nighttime lamp and turned the temp to 80. will report back. also lowered his new carolina storm wheel and placed a strip of fleece on top to see if he uses it at all.


What do you mean with a day time and night time lamp? Where is the fleece and what is the purpose? Is he eating again or are you syringe feeding him?


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## Lilysmommy (Jan 7, 2009)

By night-time lamp, I'm guessing you mean one of those red, blue, or black light lamps that are sold for reptiles? Those aren't great to use for hedgehogs (or for reptiles, really) as they can see the light & it disturbs them. That could very well be why he's refusing to come out at night. You need a ceramic heat emitter bulb, which gives off heat only, no light. It can stay on day & night. Double check your lamp, but if you have a Fluker's lamp, it should be safe to use with a CHE bulb (which get hotter than the regular heat bulbs, so the lamp must be rated safe to use with it). It's also best to have a thermostat to plug the lamp into, which will allow you to set the temperature.

It sounds like you're making good changes for him!! Hopefully they'll help & he'll start to be more active. If you're not sure if he's eating, it'd be a good idea to weigh or count out his kibble so you can keep a closer eye on it. If he goes for more than a day or two without eating very much or at all, you'll need to syringe-feed him.


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

he eats plenty of kibble just wont eat mealworms. i watch him eat during playtime. i do have a day/night bulb in each of the different lamps on a timer. they do give off red nocturnal light. ihave a flukers lamp, i will switch to a CHE bulb. i was going to purchase a thermostat but was concerned about the price. any suggestion.? im bummed i bought a second lamp for no reason!! maybe ill keep it for his light schedule and use the other lamp for the CHE but leave it on all the time. i placed a tiny fleece strip from his dig box on top of his wheel and if its moved i know he at least went on his wheel a little. im heading to petco tomorrow to get a CHE bulb!!! thanks for the suggestions


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## Lilysmommy (Jan 7, 2009)

It's okay if he won't eat the mealworms - while it's a good idea to offer them insects, they won't die or get sick without them. Are you offering freeze-dried, canned, or live? You could also try other insects - pet stores typically carry crickets as well, and there are websites where you can order a large variety of feeder insects. I like ordering from Rainbow Mealworms - lots of variety!

You could always try returning the lamp if it hasn't been too long! But keeping it to use for the daytime light works too.  If you don't already have one, a timer is cheap, $5-10 & makes the light schedule a breeze. That way you don't have to worry about it if you're out for the night or in a rush in the morning, etc.

I use this thermostat - http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controllers Petco is usually the one chain store I can usually find them actually in the store at, most other stores always seem to need to order them. So look while you're there. I recommend the 1000w instead of the 500w if you have the choice - the price is similar (the 1000w is often cheaper for whatever reason), and the 1000w has 3 outlets for lamps instead of just 1. So if you end up needing to add a second heat lamp or something, you have that option without buying a second thermostat.

Oh, and get the 100w or 150w CHE bulb, depending on what wattage you're already using with the current bulbs. Once you have the bulb & thermostat, try to get the temperature to stay around 75 or so. That tends to work best for most hedgehogs. With how the thermostat works, it'll likely fluctuate a degree or two either direction, which is normal. If you notice the edges of the cage aren't staying as warm as near the lamp, you may end up needing two CHE lamps (or possibly just a bigger lamp, depending on what size you have - 10" is most recommended for spreading heat out more).


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

all very helpful, i love this community !!


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## Artemis-Ichiro (Jan 22, 2016)

The thermostat is a must because it will control the CHE and turn it on and off.


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

wanted to update everyone:

after getting the CSBW, a CHE bulb, and a 12 hour light schedule on a timer, wylie coyote is doing much better!! i now have a poopy wheel to clean every morning (yay!) and all his toys are moved each morning! he is still playful and loving but his laziness is a thing of the past!! peace & love from me and a happy happy hedgehog!


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## Lilysmommy (Jan 7, 2009)

That's great news! Funny how hedgie owners can be so happy about poop-covered wheels, huh? :lol:


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## happytreecompany (Dec 15, 2016)

a poop covered wheel was the best christmas gift i could ever get!! my boyfriend gave me the weirdest look ever when i squealed this morning over hedgie poop instead of presents.


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