# Is this safe?



## Zeppy (Mar 8, 2013)

I would like to use this CHE setup with my bin, I thought this would be the safest in terms of not having to worry about the CHE moving or falling. So the dome would be directly on top of the metal grate covering. I plan on wrapping the metal grate in electrical tape around the edges where it comes in contact with the plastic in case it does heat up alot. I don't have my CHE yet otherwise I would just test it. Its a 150w CHE and 10" Dome, Zilla thermostat. Room temp is 63 right now. Comments/Suggestions?


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## Erizo (Jul 25, 2012)

So long as your "metal grate covering" is solid, it seems fine. Putting the lamp directly on top of the grate should be fine. The grate will heat up A WHOLE LOT on the first firing of the day/night. Once the target temperature is reached, the lamp and grate probably won't get all that hot after that. It will cycle on for relatively short periods of time if your setup is good (i.e. adequate). If the CHE is on a lot, it suggests that you need to adjust the setup and moderate power demand. The CHE shouldn't be on for hours on end. That would indicate that the setup is: underpowered; draft from an outside wall; etc.

I use 150 watt bulbs. The room heater is set to 65 degrees and a pair of 150 watt CHEs on a 2 grid x 4 grid C&C cage is easily adequate to bump the cage temperature 10 degrees, to 75 degrees 24/7.

From your picture, I'm pretty sure that the clearance of the bulb from the grid will be minimal with that lamp. It is shorter than ideal. I have a couple of that model and don't like that. I 'prop up' the lamp a bit with a large 'office binder clip'. This gives the bulb a bit of clearance.

Close view of Zoo Med 10" 'deluxe' - overpriced at $25.
http://serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pictur ... a-cr-2.jpg

Two Flukers lamps on the left. They cost $15 and are superior to the Zoo Med. (For reasons unrelated to your question / situation, I am using three lamps. Don't let the picture throw you off of what you need.)
http://serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pictur ... k-a-cr.jpg


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## Zeppy (Mar 8, 2013)

Its kinda solid if you bend it, it will stay that shape. I believe this is the product or similar (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... UYKXDDrxp4) . I have some material left I could make a circle that would raise the lamp up a bit, do you think this would be wise? Also I got the ZooMed on Amazon for $20, I'm pretty sure the flukers one is more expensive on Amazon. Not worth it to buy locally even if it was $15 if would be more than $5 in gas round trip to most stores.

I'm really hoping the bin maintains heat better than a C&C cage does!

Also I notice you have the Zilla temperature control, has that been holding up well for you. I got the same one.


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## Erizo (Jul 25, 2012)

I'm not familiar with that product. You'll have to use your own judgment there. The cover ought be pretty sturdy.

I got all of my heating stuff on Amazon. You'll save a ton by buying it there. Some people buy the bulbs locally because the defect rate is said to be high. And, in fact, I had to eat the loss of a pretty new bulb that went bad. For me, it's still cheaper to buy from Amazon. I do have an extra bulb in reserve, just in case.

I love the Flukers lamps that I first got. I wanted a couple more lamps and 'splurged' on more expensive Zoo Meds. They are a bit shorter and leave near zero clearance between bulb and lid. For me, propping one edge up with lage binder clips is enough to fix that issue. If I had it do over again, for sure I'd get the same Flukers that I got originally. Cheaper, and better (for me).

Sophie has two 2 grid x 4 grid C&C cages and they hold heat great. One of them is on an outside wall, so heating is definitely trickier with that one, but that isn't because of the cage. It's because it is along an outside wall of a 1920s brick building, which, not surprisingly, leaks, cool air into that part of the room.

Fleece cage covers slow heat dissipation in the back cage. I have cage wraps also, but the covers are key. I really only use them at night. I leave them off during the day. They just lay over top.

Three CHEs:
http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... rs-2-a.jpg

http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... 2-a-cr.jpg

http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... rs-2-b.jpg

Two CHEs:
http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... vers-b.jpg

My videos are probably long and boring for most people, but if you can stand them, there is lots of detail to be found. Here's a link to a room tour video. I've got just two CHEs per cage when this one was made. Two is enough, but I did go to three, in large part because of the greater control of heat spread, especially with the cage along the outside wall. Lows go into the teens here during winter and stay there, but Sophie's cages hold steady at 75 degrees. Her heating equipment doesn't work all that hard, and additional expense to the expected heating bill hasn't been too bad.

(38:55)
room-tour-13-01-12.mp4





Each cage has its own thermostat, and yes, I like the thermostat a lot. The temperature setting isn't to be relied upon though. I have a good digital thermometer in each cage, near the thermostat probe. That's what I go by - and tweak the thermostats accordingly.

This thermostat has a setting that records the high and low temperature recorded between resets. That means I can check the temperature in the morning, and also check the lowest temperature recorded during the night.

La Crosse Technology - Model: 302-604

http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... eter-a.jpg

http://www.serenebreezes.com/Sophies-pi ... r-a-cr.jpg


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