# Infrared light???



## Dillyhog

While I was looking for a heating supplies at a pet store an employee recommended to use INFRARED light bulb on Clamp- Lamp for hedgehogs to provide them with heat.
Is it a good idea or just a normal clear bulb will do? 
She also said that I can leave it for the night cause hedgehogs can't see red?
Is it a good idea or should I just get a CHE and a normal light bulb?
It looks "bloody gory" when the cage is lit with that kinda colour.

Thank you so much in advance!


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## nikki

Some hedgehogs are ok with a red light, but others won't come out because it bothers you. The best thing is the Ceramic Heat Emitter because it only gives off heat, no light at all. Also you'll need a thermostat to control the temp of the CHE, don't let the store talk you into a rheostat, they aren't the same thing.


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## Dillyhog

oh, wow, Nikki! Thank you!
what brand is good to look for? Thermostat I mean?

Thank you!
And also should I look for a timer as well?


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## Christemo

I've got this one. 
http://www.petco.com/product/108340/Zil ... erralID=NA

Only get a timer for the light, not the heat source. Heat needs to be on 24/7.


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## Dillyhog

oh, okay! Thank you!
Is it safe to use CHE bulb with a metal Clamp-Lamp (it is heavy-duty aluminum fixture with porcelain socket)?


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## Dillyhog

oh, and one more question, please:

which Thermostat is better 500W or 1000W.
I am new to this and every pet store seems to have opinion of their own


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## Christemo

I've got the 500. And yes, it's safe. Just check the wattage.


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## Nancy

I may be wrong, but I believe the 500 watt thermostat/temperature controller only has one plug in and the 1000 allows two bulbs to be plugged in. I'd go with the 1000. The difference in price is minimal and at some point in the future you may find you need the two outlets. 

Red emitting bulbs are okay for some hedgehogs, but it seems to bother others and they won't come out with it on. A better choice is a ceramic heat emitter which produces no light.


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## Dillyhog

I found a nice thermostat today which allows me to plug two heaters(for both of my hedgies!).
Thank you for all your help, guys! I feel that I know enough to be a bit more confident at my hedgehog care abilities and not fail my precious little boys!

I wonder if hedgehogs can overheat????? what are the symptoms?


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## nikki

Yes they can overheat, which can be dangerous. Some symptoms are lethargy, not eating, not wheeling...etc. That's why its so important to control the temp and keep it steady.


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## hanhan27

Hedgehogs can overheat. A girl here who actually has my hog's brother adopted another hedgehog this past summer and she passed away due to, at least her vet thinks, heat stroke.

I know "splatting" is common when hogs are hot. That's when they lay on their tummies with their legs poking out. I'm no expert, so I won't say anything else on that, but during the winter you probably don't need to worry about it. Thermostats have a temp control that turns the heat lamp on at a certain temperature then turns the heat lamp off when it reaches the set temperature. So if you set it for 75*, it would turn on when the temp drops to like 73 or 74* and turn off when it reaches 75 or 76*. You'll probably be more worried about hibernation attempts during the colder months.


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## Hissy-Fit-Hazel

another reason to go with the 1000W temp controller aside from 2 outlets...is if the CHE fails you can still plug a portable heater into it. Most heaters are way over a 500w limit but many designed now to work full @ 1500W High plus options of...1000W Med...or 800W low kind of ideas so you can use with 1000w temp control still.


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## Dillyhog

oh, thank you guys! very helpful!
just out of curiosity- what the temperature would be if a hedgehog decides to hibernate? And what would the symptoms be? Just curious...


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## ShutUpAndSmile

Personally I'd avoid getting the one 1000watt and get 2 500 watt for two different hedgehogs. 
There is only one temperature probe and I know with my snakes I've had two snakes on one temperature controller and the one cage was never the right temp. Either to hot or cold because the sensor was in the other cage. Even though they had the same cage right next to eachother with the same heat source. 
I think it's better to get the two that way you have the two probes.
But thats just my opinion some people do fine with the one. 

Hibernation temps are different for every hog. Some are very temperature sensitive and cant have anything less then 75. Others are okay with a couple of degrees lower. But try to keep yours at least at 72 degrees. I usually keep Opals cage at 74/75. 
They usually get lithargic. Have trouble walking. Their bellys will be slightly cold. 
I'm sure someone else will chime in with more symptoms.


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