# Possible Setup For Javo



## calisphere (Oct 29, 2011)

I've officially decided on Javo's menu, though I haven't gotten all ingredients yet (doing a three cat food brand mix and I have only one thus far until I get another really big rubbermaid for storage). I have kept Javo in a little 10 gallon for three days to see what his bowel movements are like and to make sure it's all normal. I am moving him to a temporary C&C cage, but am wanting to make a cage that will fit my other cages that I'm planning on having built. I did a quick Sketchup build a while ago before I got Javo. I haven't built any of the cages yet as I am getting more experienced owners of the various species I keep to approve the setups. I have to reconsider the rat cage because I've been told that the ventilation isn't enough, though I disagree.

Before I make another Sketchup, I'd like to get my hedgie plan approved. So, here is the quick rundown. Please note that the same basic design is for my snakes, lizards, and toad and is adjusted as needed.

Just in case the text isn't legible:

6x2x2 feet (LxWxH)
10x4 or 12x12 (if I can find this size) floor vents as ventilation on narrow sides spaced 4 inches from the top and centered
Sliding plexiglass doors 6 inches from all sides with additional venting via drilled holes as needed
Fleece pads/liners as substrate

A CHE would be used, positioned near the top to prevent access and accidental burns. Trial and hopefully not error will prove how closely I could place it to the top without causing a heating problem for the wood. It would also be in a clamp lamp like those used for reptiles. It will have a special shelf to clamp onto with a thick bar and maybe a PVC pipe for stability. It will also be on a thermostat to regulate temperature.

Soft lights may be added along the top for lighting and regulating Javo's internal clock. I'm unsure of the wattage as of yet but they will produce little heat and won't be blindingly strong.

The cage will be made out of wood, or possibly plywood if my stepfather thinks that it will be able to bear a lot of weight. I will be stacking cages so guinea pigs and rats will be housed above Javo. Either way, it will be sealed appropriately. If you have ever seen wooden fish tanks, you know that it is possible to seal wood with great success. Cichlid owners are the major builders of wooden tanks and if the sealer is safe for fish, then it has to be safe for just about everything else, yes?

I was also considering adding a raised dig box, enclosed with a very safe ramp, at the other end of the cage (so as not to be too close to the heat source). Of course, things such as hides, toys, wheel, and dishes will be included. I'm just worried about the bones of the cage first.


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## Pickle (Sep 11, 2011)

It looks nice but I wonder about the ventilation, if it's a closed box with only vents on the sides - then I don't think that would be adequate at all. Even if the top lid will be open I worry about the amonia smell stacking up. Everywhere I read experts are saying wire sided cages are best.


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## calisphere (Oct 29, 2011)

There won't be a lid on top, but doors on the side as there will be cages on top. I do find it strange though how little ventilation seems to be acceptable for reptiles and their poo smells a lot worse than mammals (unless you have a stinkpot cat like I do). I could always double the amount of vents on the sides, or even fit three spaced appropriately. It would give cross-ventilation. Also, if I were to have hold drilled into the plexiglass at one inch intervals on either the top or bottom or both, then that would provide between 60 and 120 holes of additional ventilation. I'm not anxious to add venting to the back because the air flow would be terrible against the wall. Perhaps I could put inch-diameter venting along the boarder of the front?

I suppose I could use screening instead of plexiglass, but I feel it may not allow me to heat the cage properly. My current apartment is very drafty. I did see someone else here had a wooden cage for their hedgie, but I can't recall the thread I was looking at. Perhaps it was one of the cage showcase threads.


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## hanhan27 (May 12, 2011)

Wooden cages are perfectly fine, but only if they are sealed and ventilated properly. It is a bit odd, but more ventilation = happier, healthier hedgehog. I'd say to put in vents where ever you can lol.  

It's more the urine that would make a living environment without enough ventilation unsanitary.


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## Christemo (Oct 5, 2011)

I wouldn't use the heat tape or a basking lamp if you're going to use a CHE. Also, I second the idea of mesh on the sides. I have a completely open cage that gets rather stinky rather quickly, so thinking about closing it off wouldn't sit well with me.


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## calisphere (Oct 29, 2011)

The heat tape and basking lamp isn't for the hedgie. I know my post was long winded, but the same cage setup would also be used for my lizards and snakes. I was just condensing down notes.

I'll make up another Sketchup with alterations for the hedgie. I'm pretty sure though that such a big cage would help in controlling any buildup. I plan on getting some premade cage liners from a site recommended on another forum I visit for guinea pigs. I'll have to get enough for several cages, so I figured that I might as well get enough for a month's worth of changes for each cage. With the liners, I'll have to poop check every day and wash liners at least once a week. It will probably be more if the rats prove stinky when they become adults. I know the guinea pigs can get by with a change once a week. If I decide to switch the lizards to fleece pads, then they'll have to be cleaned at least twice a week.

I just can't imagine one little hedgie stinking up a cage that quickly. If I did my math right, the cage will be 12 sq feet and I plan on trying to teach the little prickly how to use a litter box, so I hope it will all work out to a pretty smell-free cage.

Which brings me to a question. Does anyone know the effects of coffee grounds near hedgies? Coffee is a great oder absorber. If the fragrance is hedgie safe, then I plan on adding a bowl in the of it to the top corner of the cage far out of reach. If all else fails, carbon or baking soda can be used.


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## Hedgieonboard (Nov 15, 2009)

Baking soda works really well as an odor absorber  The cage size sounds great and really large. Hedgies can get really stinky though especially when they track fresh poop around. I have FNs that have a ton of ventillation but there is some mornings when I walk in the room and can smell it. For a lot of hedgies a good bit of the smell comes when they are running and the urine and poop are mixed and ran through. The good thing is that the cage usually smells 90% better when the wheel is cleaned but it could get pretty stinky/built up before you could get to it in the morning to clean. If you really like the idea of the plexi in the front maybe you could always add cut out areas on the two sides and cover with mesh high enough up so they couldn't get at it and climb


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## Christemo (Oct 5, 2011)

Haha, not to discourage you, but I'll show you what my baby can do in ~8 hours.










I wish I could have gotten a better shot of the wheel... just be prepared for poop on everything.... everything.


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## calisphere (Oct 29, 2011)

Sure hedgies aren't much worse than rats, right?!? Lol


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## SquiggyTheHedgie (Jul 26, 2011)

Normally wood cages (or anything wood really) are frowned upon because they can lead to mite infestations. But if its sealed properly it shouldn't be too big an issue. Hedgies can be surprisingly stinky so dont underestimate the power of a poopy wheel :lol: So aside from good ventilation, you want to make sure he gets at least 12-14 hours of light a day and keep him around 75F (depending on what he prefers) So that might bother your other pets. Just keep an open mind about how his needs are going to differ from the others, and remember that a hedgehog is NOT a rodent, and won't need anything to chew on.


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## calisphere (Oct 29, 2011)

It would definitely be sealed properly. For any cage I have built, I plan on it being basically leak-proof. I was thinking about maybe going a "trial run" with a 10 gallon sized wooden box, all sealed like the permanent cage would be and see how long it takes to get stinky. I guess it would be (hopefully) like a hide. Hopefully he'll use the bathroom it in a few times as well. I guess I'm just determined to prove that it will be okay. Lol.

More on the wood: I do plan on using untreated, natural wood. It will then be stained a very pretty color, maybe a cherry, and then sealed. I don't think I'd have to worry about mites if it's sealed as well as your common submarine. I really do plan on being able to fill these cages up with water if I wanted to (of course, because of the vents and doors, it wouldn't work).

I do plan on having lights in most of my animal cages, if not all. They will probably be soft lights sort of like the lights that turn on in cars when you open the doors. They would be on timers that would be adjusted depending on the time of the year. I have my reptiles one timers like that. The heaters will also be on thermostats and adjusted accordingly. All of my animals except for the turtles need roughly the same temperature gradient, so that makes it easy. The turtles would be on a different system all together.

I was thinking about adding a little curtain rod on the outside of each cage to add little black-out curtains on the outside. This would help me out when I have to be in the reptile room when it should be dark out. I tend to clean at night, much to my daytime critters' dismay. Curtains would help them out.


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